Discovering Lake Atitlan’s Hidden Wonders
When deciding on a honeymoon, we were overwhelmed with possibilities. We had been restoring a cooperative apartment in an historic building, for 7 months (see more here) and, planning a wedding (see more here) and knew one thing was certain. A quiet relaxing honeymoon was in order.
We also knew that our choice had to reflect our eco, vegan, frugal lifestyle. So, how do you narrow down a world of options?
We had taken a few Groupon vacations in the past and were very satisfied, so we picked Groupon to see what they had to offer. It did not take long before we found the perfect honeymoon for us!
Laguna Lodge, Eco-Resort and Nature Reserve, located on the side of a mountain, overlooking Lake Atitlan, one of the top 10 most beautiful lakes in the world, was perfect.
Our flight left within hours of our wedding. We arrived in the evening and had booked a room for one night, near the airport in Guatemala City. It has since changed names and is now the Hilton Guatemala City.
It was lovely, the staff was friendly and helpful and the food was delicious. The gardens were also magnificent.
After breakfast, and a short stroll around the gardens, our driver arrived for the hour-long journey to our destination.
It wasn’t long before we started noticing pickup trucks with machine guns mounted in the bed, soldiers standing at the ready, and traveling toward Guatemala City. We started wondering if we were a bit hasty with our decision. Was it possible that Groupon would suggest a vacation to a hostile country??
Then, our driver said, in broken English, that we were nearing a military roadblock. He informed us that we would be fine, but to leave the talking to him. Hmmmmm!! We had no problem following his direction as we did not speak fluent Spanish. We did as we were told and we were soon allowed to continue our journey.
Embarking on a Sustainable and Unforgettable Journey to Laguna Lodge
After a very long hour, bumping around in the back of a minivan, on extremely mountainous, curvy, narrow roads, we looked down on an incredible site! Lake Atitlan, glistening in the afternoon sun, dotted with small villages, nestled in between 3 huge volcanos. It was a site to behold!
Our energy rebounded!!
We were deposited at a small dock in Panajachel, armed with our backpacks and fortitude and waited for…we knew not what. Shortly a small water taxi arrived, dropping off passengers and we then climbed aboard.
The lake was unbelievably choppy. We were bounced around and splashed with spray but we were ecstatic!
At last, we arrived at the dock in front of Laguna Lodge and the site was breathtaking! Totally made from local material, by local artistisans, and the attention to details was spectacular!
We were met at the dock by Rudy, the amazingly professional, English-speaking manager. He took us on our tour. We had never seen anything so beautiful. Curving stone steps meandered through lush tropical gardens. Little lights were hidden amongst the foliage, beckoning you to follow.
As we climbed the steps, he pointed out the pool and a hot tub in a flower covered grotto, no less!
The meditation room at the very top of the lodge, under a tall, thatched roof with a breathtaking view of the lake.
We then got a tour of the restaurant, which was fully open so that you were essentially eating outside while being inside.
And lastly, he showed us to our suite. Huge open doors invited us onto a private balcony. The interior was finished in all local woods and even the furniture was made by local artists. It was lovely! I looked at my husband in astonishment!! I was speechless and he had tears in his eyes. Dudley looked at me and I knew then that there was nowhere else we would rather be.
The next day we decided to take the water taxi to Panajachel. It was a beautiful day for a boat ride and the water was calm. We then took a tuk tuk to a lush mountainous area with a butterfly house. I was mesmerized! It was then that Dudley reminded me that they had a zipline.
So, we signed up for what we thought was the shortest distance we would have to risk our lives, only to find out that we signed up to traverse 6 deep crevices, where you cannot see the bottom.
You had to wear huge gloves, likely asbestos, which were our breaks. We were told briefly what to expect, in very broken English, and started climbing up the mountain with 3 guides. We finally get to the top and were told to stand up on a very small wooden platform.
Dudley and I looked at each other and then looked at the guide. He informed us that he would go first to show us how to do it. So, we watched as he flew across that deep crevice, while we listened to the other guides telling us how simple it is and don’t be afraid.
I don’t know about you, but when someone tells me not to be afraid, the opposite happens,
Now, the 2 guides are staring at us. I look at Dudley and my face said it all…You First!!! It was his idea after all.
Like a good husband, which he is, he jokingly (like you sometimes do when you are scared to death) walked over to the tiny platform, where the guides were again giving directions. “I’m going to strap you in, you step off the platform, you watch the guide on the next platform and when he drops the flag, BREAK!!”
I’m thinking…really??? What happens if I don’t? Will I kill him by knocking him off the platform, will I die by hitting a tree??
Why do people in ads always look so happy when they are ziplining?
I’m now thinking that if Dudley chickens out, we can just walk back down the mountain. What’s the worst that can happen? Snakes, spiders, mean monkeys, get lost? I’m sure that the odds are much better than stepping off that little board.
That’s when I saw it… Dudley stepped off. Oh no!! Now I have to climb down the mountain alone, I’m not as confident now!
So, I watch Dudley to see if he is panicking and find that he is elated, laughing, and he manages to stop without killing the guide. Great!! Now it is even harder for me to climb down the mountain alone. And, what if it is fun?? I’m a fun person. I want to say that I overcame my fears and did it, but I don’t want to die. What a dilemma!
That’s when I stepped up on the little piece of wood between me and…nothing, with a few skinny straps that are supposed to keep me from plummeting to my death, and a big glove, that is 3 times too big and looks like Mickey Mouse’s hand. This glove is the only thing that is going to keep me, and the little man, far away, on the next tiny platform, from dying.
And, with that thought, and wanting to be on the other side of the crevice, with Dudley…I stepped off.
I was not elated, I was not smiling, I was not enjoying it, I was not looking around at the beautiful scenery. I was only looking at the tiny man with the flag, getting bigger by the millisecond. And then, he drops the flag.
I squeeze the zipline with all my might, close my eyes and hope for the best. When I stopped, I assumed that I was still alive, so I slowly opened my eyes. Much to my surprise, the guide was alive and so was Dudley, but they were 10’ away. I am now dangling over…nothing!!
He instructs me how to move myself hand over hand until I reached the platform and my husband (who I am now not too happy with). And we did this 5 more times.
On the following days, we followed the paths, worn by the indigenous people, over centuries, to discover the small villages along the edge of the lake.
For generations, this is the way they have traveled from one village to another. There are few roads, and most towns are only accessed by steep paths climbing up the side of a mountain or volcano.
We spent 4 glorious nights there. The food was amazing. Everything was sourced from their organic gardens or local farmers, even the coffee. The service was incredible, and everyone was very patient with our unbelievably poor Spanish, although I am not sure if they were smiling to be friendly or trying not to laugh.
We left early the next morning, on a calm lake, to meet our driver in Panajachel. Our next stop…the historic village of Antiqua, Guatemala.
Antiqua is a lovely UNESCO site, founded in 1524. Earthquakes in 1773 destroyed many of the original structures which are now maintained as ruins. It is beautiful and sad.
We found our home for one night on a quiet side street. From the street, it seemed…not impressive, but then the owner opened the big wooden, ancient door, and it revealed a lovely, large courtyard, open to the sky, with a fountain in the center.
This lovely colonial home, set in Old Antigua City, can be found on Vrbo.
We are pinching ourselves that our trip has been perfect. Well, except for the zipline, but we did survive.
The next morning, we were picked up and taken to the airport, and back to our normal, busy lives. It was an amazing trip!!
We were there in June, which is considered their rainy season, but it only rained for about an hour in the afternoon and then was lovely again.
I would highly recommend a visit to Guatemala. It is a beautiful country; the people are friendly and anxious to please and the weather is perfect. The temps were cooler than I had packed for (60s), but I am usually cold. Dudley found it to be comfortable.
When planning a trip out of the country, it is always a good idea to check the Travel Advisories to make sure that it is safe (unlike us).
